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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.